Thursday, February 17, 2011

Mistressin Leathercoat

Jermyn Street

go there now with the time of Jermyn Street, they have a website . Otherwise they have similar problems as in Savile Row, just that its products (Such as shirts, shoes or shaving of the Wellington Trump) are a little bit more affordable than in the Row. But the rents are rising and prices for 'shirts can not be increased ad infinitum . And, moreover, companies are pushing in the road that used to belong there in the opinion of many have not. The mail order mail order Charles Tyrwhitt, for example (even if to say to many of its products is not).


Before I even just to express my hatred of business, bring the pig to sell you expensive dress shirts under the pretext that this is the best shirt in the world where the Knöpp but fall already, hardly brings it home from the bag, so before I do that, I would like to say something about the history of the street. As I want does not create the impression, I'm only about superficial things. And of course, shirts are not something superficial, they are a symbol - as anyone of the Fitzgeralds Great Gatsby has read:

Recovering himself in a minute he opened for us two hulking patent held his massed suits Which cabinets and dressing -gowns and ties, and his shirts, piled like bricks in stacks a dozen high.
"I've got a man in England who buys me clothes. He sends over a selection of things at the beginning of each season, spring and fall.”
   He took out a pile of shirts and began throwing them, one by one, before us, shirts of sheer linen and thick silk and fine flannel, which lost their folds as they fell and covered the table in many-colored disarray. While we admired he brought more and the soft rich heap mounted higher — shirts with stripes and scrolls and plaids in coral and apple-green and lavender and faint orange, and monograms of Indian blue. Suddenly, with a strained sound, Daisy bent her head into the shirts and began to cry stormily.
   “They’re such beautiful shirts,” she sobbed, her voice muffled in the thick folds. “It makes me sad because I've never seen such -. seeking beautiful shirts before "



What would this scene, if there would suddenly drop the buttons of the shirts? Daisy the sewn on? First love test and such? Could Fitzgerald, who was just as spoiled fruits like its heroine, sew on buttons at all? The idea with the declining buttons I got at that time throughout the film. For all that throws as Robert Redford Mia Farrow's feet came from Turnbull & Asser.

But before I look to the cultural history of Jermyn Street come, I would just like to say something about shirt buttons. And I do not mean this whole Gesülze that they need to be made from real pearl and possibly twice as high as our competitors - if the immovable finger in the morning in old age, will be the most curse - no, I mean the simple thing; how they are sewn. Cross stitch and stem, of course. But why fall off the buttons, the shirt is more expensive? And her in the Jermyn Street No.. 53 now listening to the laughter! You learn in life so different things, and although I am glad to have learned Latin and French, I'm much happier that my grandmother sewing on taught buttons and ironing shirts. When I approach a button, then holds him too.

I read some time ago in the newspaper a notice that the German textile industry has paid DM 200,000 for a report which should figure out why the buttons are fall of the shirts (or jackets). My grandmother was there already dead, could not have said the German economy. But each and every tailor seamstress from Bielefeld to Hanoi (where van Laack can sew) had the textile industry for a fraction of the sum can say. It lies on the lack of sewing and securing the thread end. However, in spite of the opinion changed.

The shirts that they sell in Jermyn Street, of course, everything is different. For one thing, the more comfortable shirts that are made of two ply Sea or Iceland cotton spacious. The back part is always longer than the front. And a small triangular wedge between them. At Thomas Pink, the pink , which is more of a faded pink. The yoke is always shared, and the patterns are adapted from shoulder to sleeve the target pattern. The sleeve is pleated several times (you can tell you true quality) fitted into the sleeve. Whether the slit on a button gauntlet has been or remains open, varies from company to company. But of course everything is made in Britain . Or?

Twenty years ago, said David Harris, the director of New & Lingwood in Observer: market We have no wish to compete in the global luxury product. It might sound something of a contradiction but we do not want to chase volume. That would put our culture and our cachet at a risk. We Must Ensure that we remain what we are ... Several of our competitors Jermyn Street entered the American market through the stores. They sell shirts by the dozen but their nature has changed, they have become volume shippers of Jermyn Street-labeled products. Since one can only say: Well roared, Lion . His company is supposed to produce more in the United Kingdom. Most others have long since given up their shirts come in Gdansk, Italy or the Far East. Even on the English Wikipedia Jermyn Street page is already behind many company names all shirts are imported .

In the novel A Rebours by Joris Karl Huysmans wants to go to the somewhat eccentric hero, the Duke of Esseintes, London. As a true dandy, he dresses according to the occasion for this visit.

"What a weather," sighed the old servant, the clothes, which requires his master had put on a chair.
Instead each answer rubbed his hands and the Duke sat in front of a cabinet with colored panes, which was heaped a pile of silk socks in a fan shape. He was undecided about the nuances. He decided in the light of day and the desolation of his dark gray suit, and in view of his target on a pair of green silk satin. He pulled a pair of half boots and about the mouse-gray checked suit, sat on a small round hat, and wrapped himself in a dark blue raincoat. followed by his servant, under the weight of a suitcase, traveling bag, a hat and a manta, were wrapped in the umbrellas and walking sticks, nearly collapsed, he arrived at the station.



He will not leave the station. He dreams to achieve in the eleventh chapter of the novel in the station restaurant his own London. If they now should not have any dull green silk socks for visiting the city, get but the Jermyn Street virtually into the house. And here you can see all the shops in the street (north side and south) side by side.

And the architecture historical view of Jermyn Street can actually be quite short. Of the original buildings, which are developed here from 1684, is no more. The prettiest is perhaps the Victorian facade of no. 93, the cheesemongers Paxton & Whitfield. Parts of the road are threatened by demolition. The so-called ☞ St. James's Gateway plan will also change the Jermyn Street. If you are looking for something architecturally beautiful, where you can also buy, then we should go in the Burlington Arcade. Looks like your mall is at home, but the London of the Regency period.

Henry Jermyn, first Baron Jermyn of St Edmundsbury and first Earl of St. Albans, had planned the whole ensemble of space and roads. The This country had acquired the courtier and players in 1664 just before the Great Fire of London. He will not sell it, lease it for 99 years. Then everyone can build his own architect, and yet the landlord has certain controls over the planning system and the design. Twenty years later, Jermyn will die there, where it meets the St. James Square has planned. The whole thing has been an ensemble from which one can still see the skeletal plan. It is what the French call a would faubourg , Jermyn is a favorite of Charles II so long been in France, so you already can accept a French influence in the planning. It is of course a fine area have been because it is close to St. James's Palace was, now is still the headquarters of the English monarch. Diplomats accredited to the Court of St. James, there has not changed for centuries.

addition to the Earl of St Albans there is a second nobleman who is a piece of cake from the map of in the 17th has cut-century London's ever-expanding. And that is Thomas Wriothesley , the fourth Earl of Southampton. Who with the Bloomsbury Square, which was first called Southampton Square, the first London square in the 17th Century building (though there's already St. Albans St. James Square in the planning was done). It is now being built after the great fire of 1666 much in London. The city is shifting further and further away from the river, more and more in the West. Where today there is Harrods are then still villages. We are due to numerous illustrations, for example, by Wenceslaus Hollar, about London in this time very well informed, on top of his drawing are the bright parts in the middle of the way the parts of London, which were destroyed by fire.

was soon extinguished the fire, when Charles II were only two men in front of the door in order to submit plans for reconstruction. One was Sir Christopher Wren, John Evelyn and the other . And then there are still Wrens Assistant Robert Hooke who develops a similar plan for London, as he, the Baron Haussmann in Paris centuries later put into practice. Charles was interested in any of the plans. This course, a city planning opportunity has been taken, but Wren has, after all, had the chance to build any new churches. At this point I must go to insert just a wonderfully silly Clerihew:

Sir Christopher Wren
Went to dine with some men
He said, "If anyone calls, Say I'm
designing Saint Paul's

Clerihews are something of limericks, invented by Edmund Clerihew Bentley, who also wrote detective novels great . Maybe Wren was also happy that the king has his plan did not even looked, he had enough time to build his church. The Earl of St. Albans Wren also asked to build him a church. The Sir Christopher described later as his most worthy community church. In this respect, differ faubourgs Southampton and St. Albans: St. James in the planning its own church, Bloomsbury had not. But go to the beautiful church of course all people are not into that visit this part of London only because of the temple of consumption of Jermyn Street.

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